A Local’s Guide to Byron Bay
Living in Byron Bay means you run on a different time zone to the rest of the world. Not literally, but this small, touristy town, on the Northern Coast of New South Wales, is world-famous for its laidback lifestyle, talented-buskers, great surf, insta-worthy beaches, delicious local produce and spectacular coffee. It became popular with surfers and hippies during the 1970s, and since then it has been the place to be - a nook of paradise easily accessible from Brisbane or a quick flight from Sydney or Melbourne. It’s still a pretty small town, but there is plenty to do and see. I have lived there on and off for years and have been told that even the locals notice the changes that Byron goes through, witnessing the tourist season grew, the long summers becoming endless. Money has entered the area with the influx of Sydney-siders, moving up to enjoy life in the country. This has allowed the place to build up and become some of the most valuable real estate in Australia, but never fear, there are plenty of authentic local experiences, and crappy pubs for you to enjoy. Leave a good week or more to explore the area, Byron will want you to move slower than you may be used to, but there is more than enough to do in town and around the local area. As the sign outside Byron tells you as it welcomes you into the town, “Cheer Up, Slow Down, Chill Out.”
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| Welcome to Byron Bay sign |
Why You Will Like Byron
There is always something happening, even in winter, which is arguably the best time to come. If you want a beach holiday that’s full of city-side eateries, a buzzing nightlife, a great music scene, shopping and plenty of activities to suit everyone. The town is surrounded by mountainous national parks, and the sweeping bay has some of the most beautiful beaches in Australia. You can learn to surf, pick up a new hobby or just spend your holiday exploring the area, relaxing on the sunny beaches, enjoying the coffee and sleeping in luxurious accommodation. Although, as many older locals will say to you, the town has changed dramatically in the last 20 years, there is still the laidback alternative lifestyle that Byron is famous for, full of boho buskers and vegan restaurants, just with some added Hollywood glamour.
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| Beach views |
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| The lighthouse at the beginning of the 20th century |
A Little Bit of History
The Arakwal Bunjalung people call this place Cavenbah, meaning ‘meeting place’, a name which still resonates today, as the small seaside town draws people from all over the world to meet in the astonishing bay. The land is part of the eroded volcanic caldera of the Tweed Volcano that last erupted 23 million years ago, creating the fertile countryside in the sub-tropical rainforest and coastal area. James Cook on his voyage named the placed Byron Bay after the sailor John Byron, grandfather of the acclaimed poet Lord Byron. Timber logging, gold mining, fishing and whaling occurred in the area after European colonisation. A jetty was built in the 19th century, and then the lighthouse opened in 1901 to guide sailors through the treacherous waters, the wreck off the main beach pays homage to the dangerous waters. Sand mining and whaling occurred into the 1960s, but by the late 1960s surfers had started to arrive. In 1973 the Aquarius festival in nearby Nimbin cemented Byron as an alternative ‘hippy’ tourist destination.
How To Get Here
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| Take to the skies - Byron is easily accessible from major cities |
Fly into Ballina-Byron Airport and drive up the highway following signs to Byron for about 30 mins. Alternatively, fly into the Gold Coast airport or Brisbane airport and get one of the main shuttle buses between the airport and town, or follow the signs. Brisbane is about 2 hours north and the Goldie 45 mins. There are no trains to Byron but there are buses which come up from Sydney, going overnight. This can be a cheaper option than flying.
Places To Stay
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| Relaxing in hammocks at the Backpackers |
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| Rae's on Watergo's |
If you are going for something a bit fancy, or at least something outside of the backpacker raucous, try the 5* hotel The Byron at Byron, or similarly the Elements Resort. The Atlantic is an acclaimed hotel, as is Rae's on Watergos. The prices for these can be a little steep, so if that’s outside of your budget, but you’d rather not slum it with the backpackers, check out one of the many motels in the area. They are all pretty much similar in quality. Or you could book a holiday home - look at Airbnb for plenty of options, according to a University of Sydney report over 17% of the total properties in the area are now listed on the website.
Feeling Peckish?
Byron, as the strange Sydney-Melbourne-Gold-Coast hybrid that it is, is home to plenty of amazing eateries, cafes and coffee shops. Here are a few you don’t want to miss out on.
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| Folk Cafe |
Wanting To Splash Out - If you would like to try something a little more fancy head to The Mez Club for cocktails and has beautiful Mediterranean tapas. There is also a restaurant in the centre of town called Fresh where there is something for everyone. Out of town in Newrybar there is a fantastic restaurant and deli called Harvest, pop up there for Sunday lunch or to get some bread on a Saturday.
Cafes and Coffee - There are plenty of cafes in Byron, pretty much all of them are fantastic, but here is my pick of the best. Topshop, a little way out of the centre of town is a locals coffee and brekkie haunt. Popular with tourists is the best place for acai bowls and smoothies in town is Combi. In the region there is The Belle General, Ballina, the best breakfast in the area for sure - try the smashed avo on toast. In Lennox Head, there is Shelter, which is perfect for lunch and breakfast, a little expensive, but has a beautiful view of the sea.
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| coffee at Shelter |
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| Foxy Luu's |
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| The Wreck on Main Beach |
The Beautiful Beaches
The beaches in Byron Bay are world-renowned for their white sand, and amazing surfing. Outside of the town beach - Main Beach, which is posted with friendly lifeguards and plenty of hippies and tourists alike enjoying the setting sun and the drumming in the evening - there are plenty of other beaches that are worthy of a visit. Head down to the beach in the evening for a BBQ - many of the beaches have facilities to use for free. Don’t forget to be SunSmart - slip, slop, slap!
Head to Watergos for sunbathing, people watching and admiring the multi-million dollar properties that line the stunning waterfront of this small beach. Here there is an easy, and pretty, walk along a cliff edge boulevard form the centre of town, which heads all the way up to the famous lighthouse. Parking here is almost impossible, so unless you are very patient its best to walk. Just around the corner from this stunning beach is a secluded spot called Little Watergos, if you want some tranquil moments away from the crowds.
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| The azure waters of Watergo's beach |
Belongil is for walking, running the dogs and the kids, take a kite or a frisbee and go paddle in the Tea Tree Creek that meets the sea at this beach. There is a funky (if a little daggy around the edges) restaurant just off the beach here called Treehouse. Their pizzas are to-die-for.
Broken Head is outside of town, the place where Chris Hemsworth is often seen taking a dip in the water with the pro surfers. The parking here can get very busy at the height of summer, but the beach itself is usually pretty quiet.
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| Surfing in Byron |
Take wannabe surfers for a go at The Pass, a busy corner of the beaches where the water is perfect for surfing, beginners and intermediates alike. Just up the beach from here is Clarkes, and the famed Beach Byron Restaurant - a cafe with unbeatable seafront views.
So Many Places To Go
The Lighthouse, built in 1901, is the strongest light in the southern hemisphere. You can take tours up to the top, or you can just walk around it and visit the most Easterly Point of the continent. There are a lot of stairs up to the lighthouse, or you can drive, but the car park shuts at sunset, so if you want to watch the sunset over the Byron hinterland (which you will) take the hike up there.
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| Sunset at the Lighthouse |
Head to the Markets! Every Sunday there is a market in the region, google where it is on the weekend you are staying. There are also plenty of farmers markets that are always worth heading to for lovely local produce and live music. If you miss the market there are always plenty of places to buy local produce, from on the side of the road stalls to the health food stores.
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| One of Byron's colourful markets |
The Main Beach park is the best place to watch buskers. In summer this little park underneath the monkey trees with their screeching rainbow lorikeets feels like a festival, so grab a patch of grass, some fish and chips, and join the party. Kids can go play in the playground area nearby.
The Farm - technically this a place to eat, but its such great place to go (despite what many locals might say otherwise) the Farm is a day out in itself. Funky and fashionable, this farm is home to the Three Blue Ducks restaurant, a plant nursery, many animals you can look at or even ride, plenty of places to walk and myriads of photo opportunities. (An Instagram paradise, especially in sunflower season.) Go for coffee and a croissant, or ice cream, and have a wander around.
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| Sunflowers in bloom at The Farm |
Crystal Castle is a serene, if expensive place, where a large collection of crystals and statues are displayed in a beautiful rainforest environment. Visit their gift shop for beautiful crystals, books, Tibetan flags, and jewellery. There is also a cafe overlooking the beautiful hinterland.
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| Buddha statue in Crystal Castle |
Go kayaking with the dolphins, or go whale watching from June to August on one of the many tours in Byron.
You can also hire surfboards or paddleboards to stay closer to the shore. You can get lessons in any watersports all over town. Other outdoor activities include going skydiving, or taking a tourist bus up the coast.
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| Dolphins in the bay |
Climb Mt Warning - while the local Aboriginal people would rather only men visit this sacred space (locally known as Wollumbin, although it was renamed by Cook's colonists as Mt Warning), you can always visit the surrounding area and go for lunch or even stay at the beautiful restaurant and venue, Mavis’ Kitchen and Cabins, the co-owner Charlie’s auntie’s old Queenslander house has been transported to the beautiful rainforest countryside and done up as a lovely eatery.
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| A view of Mt Warning |
Go to Minyon Falls, a 100m waterfall with an amazing lookout, and a hiking track. There are plenty of other falls in the region, ask a local for their secret spot, but it’s best to go after heavy rainfall, not during drought.
Have a picnic in the boot of your car and watch the sunset at the lookout on Coolamon Scenic Drive, just 10 minutes up the highway.
Go shopping! From boho-chic Spell and the Gypsy Collective, to the old-school Byron Bay Cookie company, hundreds of small and big businesses have bases in this town. Head to the Arts and Industry Complex. Or visit the new complex Habitat for shopping, yoga, haircuts and to eat at their cafe Barrio. Visit the Newrybar Merchants for more gifts, clothes, bath and home goodies. Driftlab in town sells fantastic fashion that’s reminiscent of the unique surfer-skater-boho look of the town. Or you could go to any of the vintage stores such as Miss Brown’s to pick up some unique treasures.
Relax - yoga and spas. The Byron at Byron has a lovely spa, but there are plenty of options outside such as relax at The Kiva Spa or go for a beauty treatments at Clay, both in Mullum. Head to a beginners Yoga class at Creature Yoga, or book one of the many beach yoga classes.
Nightlife and Culture
The Beachie - The Beach Hotel - is the main pub, overlooking main beach. Here they have a cocktail bar, a pizza oven, two bars, and lots of space. Check out their lineup for the weekends, there is usually lots of great live music every day. The Northern on the other end of town has great music too, but its The Rails that is the true locals joint.
Cheeky Monkey's is the infamous Byron club, with plenty of fun events, but if you want something a little bit more low-key Woody’s is a better option.
The Loft and The Mez Club are best for cocktails, but The Balcony and Locura are also some great bars in town. However, pretty much anywhere you go will have good music, a fun atmosphere and overpriced drinks.
There is a new cinema in Byron - The Palace Theatre which is beautiful and shows new blockbusters as well as indie films and hosts film festivals, including foreign language films and the Byron International Film Festival.
The Stone and Wood Brewery is a great place to go to see the local beer being made and listen to some live music.
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| Stone and Wood Brewery |
There is a small local theatre which screens live events, but it's best when you find a local comedy act like Mandy Nolan or a regional touring play.
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| Splendour in the Grass festival |
Festivals are aplenty in the region, from the legendary Bluesfest, to the pop music festivals Splendour in the Grass and Falls Festival, to the Mullum Music Fest or even the Byron Writers Festival, there is something to do year-round. There are many small local festivals and even the school galas open to the public can be lots of fun, try the Cape Byron Rudolf Steiner School’s annual Spring Fair. Do your research about what festivals are on before you arrive, because it might make the town a lot busier. Another thing to look out for if you prefer a more relaxed holiday is Schoolies - when the graduating class finishes school in November - that's when half the kids in the state descend on Byron.
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| Jack Johnson playing at Bluesfest |
Check out this link for current events https://www.byron-bay.com/events/.
Outside of town, the best culture can be found at the Brunswick Picture House, a 20-minute drive away, where they have comedy, cabaret, live music, film events (think Rocky Horror or Grease) and many other great events in this cute refurbished old cinema.
If you want to get your own alcohol, beneath the Beachie is a bottle-shop, but be wary that many of the public areas, including beaches, are alcohol-free, and the police in Byron breath-test, and drug-test regularly, so don’t drink and drive.
Head Out Of Town
If you brought a car then you can head out of town, out of the so-called Byron Bubble, to explore the rest of the beautiful shire and it’s surrounding area.
Drive up the coast to Brunswick Heads, a 20-minute drive, to go to the family-friendly Torrikina Beach and go hear local music at the pub or get some fish and chips and jump off the bridge into the river, or go paddleboarding on the river. Stay here a night or two in the upmarket Brunswick Heads Motel. Book a meal at the widely-acclaimed Fleet restaurant, if you can get in, if not, go for breakfast at Footbridge cafe.
Mullumbimby - nestled in beautiful valley countryside, this place is a 'you'll love it or you'll hate it' local hippy jaunt. Full of colourful characters, shops and cafes, Mullum is a must-see. Head to the Pubs crappy-oke night or go for fresh juice at the health food store Santos.
Federal is a small town in the hinterland that only 10 years ago was mostly deserted. Now it's bustling, with cute coffee stores and shops, but most importantly, Doma Cafe, a Japanese restaurant open for lunch and selling the yummiest sushi in the region. There is a lovely park, and skatepark here, with a cute heritage church, and not much else. Around the corner is Crystal Castle - see places to go.
Bangalow is the well-to-do heritage town just up the highway out of Byron, full of refurbished Queenslander homes. It has a heritage street full of beautiful shops where you can buy arts and crafts, clothes, and gifts. Go to Pantry 29 for takeaway food and fresh juices, and don't miss out on the Asian goodies and groceries store
I hope you enjoy this town as much as we do! Stay safe and enjoy this little slice of paradise. And please make sure to take your rubbish home, swim between the flags, and 'take three for the sea' when you leave the beach.
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